One golfer watching the GOAT whip video asked exactly the right follow-up: “Do you like to carry this feeling also into your shorter pitch shots? 50 to 80 yards or so? Or do you operate with those shots differently?” It's a great question, because the whip is built around full-speed release — and the short game is about control. Here's how to reconcile the two.
The Question
The worry is reasonable: if the whip is about maximum effortless speed, won't it send a 60-yard wedge sailing over the green? No — because the whip isn't a fixed amount of speed you must apply. It's a pattern. And patterns scale.
Same Structure, Less Speed
Everything that makes a full swing efficient still applies on a wedge, just smaller:
- No handle drag. You still don't want to pull the grip through with a dead clubhead — that produces those heavy, chunky, distance-killing wedges.
- Passive trail hand. The trail hand still doesn't flip; the lead wrist still leads.
- Body leads, hands follow. The body still turns through and the hands go along, rather than the hands stabbing at the ball.
- A small, proportional release. The lead-wrist supination still happens — just a fraction of what it is at full speed.
So you keep the structure of the whip and dial the velocity down to match the shot. A 60-yard wedge has a fraction of the release a full 8-iron does, but it's the same kind of release.
How the Whip Scales to Partial Shots
Think of it as the same swing with a shorter backswing and lower speed. A shorter backswing means a smaller load, which means a smaller, slower release. The clubhead still gently overtakes the hands through impact — you just don't need or want the full snap. This is why elite wedge players have such clean, repeatable contact: they're running the same efficient pattern at a controlled dose, not inventing a separate “steer it” technique.
Key: The most common short-game fault is the opposite of the whip — golfers drag the handle and quit on the shot, leading to fat and thin contact. Keeping a small, passive release actually makes wedges more consistent, not less.
Control Around the Greens
Control comes from three things, none of which conflict with the whip:
- Backswing length sets the distance — not hand speed or a hit impulse.
- A passive, quiet release keeps the face stable and contact predictable.
- Body rotation through keeps the low point consistent so you don't chunk or blade it.
What About Chips and Short Pitches?
On true chips and short pitches inside ~30 yards, the release is so small it's barely perceptible — the stroke is mostly a quiet, body-controlled motion with very little wrist action. You're not trying to feel a “snap” there. But the underlying principles still hold: no handle dragging, passive trail hand, body controlling the low point. The whip simply gets quieter and quieter as the shot gets shorter, until it nearly disappears on the smallest shots. For the full-speed version, see how to whip the golf club.
Feel It in a Free Live Lesson
GOATY watches your swing in real time and coaches the whip rep by rep — no subscription required. Point your phone, swing, and find out what's actually happening at impact.
Start Free Live Lesson →Frequently Asked Questions
Should I use the whip release on wedge shots?
Yes, but scaled down. Keep the same structure — no handle drag, passive trail hand, body leading, a small lead-wrist supination — but reduce the speed and backswing length to match the shot. A 60-yard wedge uses a fraction of the release a full iron does, but it is the same efficient pattern, which makes contact more consistent.
Won't the whip make my wedges fly too far?
No. The whip is a pattern, not a fixed amount of speed. You control distance with backswing length, not by adding a hit impulse. A shorter backswing produces a smaller load and a smaller, slower release, so the ball goes a controlled distance. The structure stays the same; the dose scales down.
Does the whip apply to chip shots?
On chips and short pitches inside about 30 yards the release becomes so small it is barely noticeable — the stroke is mostly a quiet, body-controlled motion with minimal wrist action. The principles still hold (no handle drag, passive trail hand, body controls low point), but you are not trying to feel a snap on the smallest shots.
Why do I hit my wedges fat and thin?
Usually because you drag the handle and quit on the shot, moving the low point and delivering a dead clubhead. Keeping a small, passive release with the body rotating through stabilizes the low point and the face, which is exactly what the whip structure provides at short-game scale. Consistent low point fixes most fat and thin wedges.